Little Bear
Region: Bear Mountain
Distance: 5 miles + 600’
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate
ACA: 3Alll
Duration: 4-5 Hours
Longest Rappel: 95’
Rope: 1 x 100’ + 1 x 100’ Pull Cord
Anchor Materials: 30’ webbing + 3 rapides
Parking: Park at Sun Bear Parking. Drive Past Bear Mountain TH on Boynton Pass Rd until the pavement ends. Once on the dirt road, take the 1st Right onto FR152E. Drive carefully to the end of the bumpy road to the abandoned homestead. If the road gets too rough there is a pull off on the left near the power lines.
Parking for the Original Approach at Bear Mountain TH.
Overview: A Few Rappels under 100’ will land you at the bottom of Little Bear Canyon. Ideally this route can be done as a link up with Sun Bear as they utilize the same approach and exit. For those new to the area or sport, starting with Miyagi would be a good warm up option as well. Recommended approach is from the sun bear homestead, starting from Bear Mountain will add on mileage and time. This route is rated easy to moderate depending on the approach option you select.
Intermediate and beginner approach options
Easy Dismounts
Link Up with Sun Bear, Bobcats, Miyagi, or Half Dilly
Great for sunrise and sunsets
A fun option during precipitation/ runoff
Approach: From the Abandoned homestead looking north at Bear, start towards the cliff band dropping suddenly into the main drainage. There are 2 Approach options (A)=Moderate and (B)=Easy
Both Options are fairly short and should link you up with the traverse trail within 30 minutes.
Option A: Cross over drainage through sparse catclaw and up a short hill to the cliff band with a series of short gullies. Once you reach the cliff band traverse the ledge up and to the right to avoid vegetative hardship. Work your way around to an obvious gully on your left hand side with large bushes at its base. Rock quality inside the gully is poor, staying left on the sandstone and wearing helmets is advised. Near the top of the gully is a large tree just before a 30 foot chimney that will stop your progress. Turn around at the chimney and walk down to the large tree. Just past the tree and down gully on the right, is a red rock slab that can be accomplished with a couple exposed steps traversing to the low- angle nose. Continue up the nose moving right and into the next gully section that can be carefully stemmed. Use caution when topping out on the large sandstone slabs. Follow a faint social trail west (the direction you come out of the gully) and up to one last gully. To top out on the first bench will require one last mantle move at the top with positive hand and foot hold features. Once atop, this is a good rest spot as you are rewarded with Red Rock views on the 1st bench slab. Head north a short distance toward the cliff face of Bear and you will soon connect with the Bear Traverse trail. Turn left onto the social trail and follow it to past Sun Bear over another drainage to the head of the Little Bear.
**This approach option is the recommended approach for an experienced group and a competent leader comfortable with mild exposure. During heavy precipitation or runoff the original approach would be the recommendation.
**not recommended during snowy or wet conditions due to rock quality.
Option B (Bail out approach): If the 4th class approach gets too heady or nerve racking the main drainage you came in on may be a good last ditch effort.
Once in the main drainage hike up the rocky wash navigating through old and new vegetative growth. Continue up the approach gully staying right until you hit a steep slick rock section. Bypass this section on the left then traverse back over to the right side and up to social trail at the head of the drainage. Turn left on the social trail heading west to the head of lower sunbear located left of a obvious 30 foot overhung boulder on the right sd of the trail.
This option is more bushy but less exposed and challenging and will still allow for a short loop from Sun Bear parking.
Original Approach- This adds about 1 mile onto the approach and 1 mile onto the exit. Start and end at Bear Mtn Th via the western traverse off the 1st bench. Walk road from sunbear parking to Bear mtn Th for the exit. Reccomended for those with more time as this approach will make sun bear a 5 to 6 hour route. Most scenic approach, and most beginner friendly. To reduce exit time a shuttle can be dropped at the Sun Bear parking before departing from Bear Mountain Trailhead. The extra effort on this approach and exit make the short technical section questionably worth it.
Descent: 3 rappels under 100’ down a slick rock watercourse.
Baby Bear Alternative: Baby bear is the next drainage west or ~200 past the Little Bear drainage. This option provides up to 3 rappels under 50’ and lands you next to R2.
R1: 95’ off tree RDC.
R2: 80’ off tree LDC. Free-hanging into “Cub Cove” a beautiful alcove with stunning views.
R3: 70’ off tree RDC.
Exit: Head Down drainage boulder hoping your way through the prominent drainage. Soon the confluence of Sun Bear will join on your left side, continue on the Sun Bear exit The canyon is boxed in at first but opens up eventually and the cliffs on the left side and spires on your right will diminish as you are nearing an old jeep road on your left. Take a left out of the drainage and onto the jeep road and after a short distance you will see powerlines crossing over the rd. At the crossing take a left and hike up a short hill following the powerline trail. Soon the abandoned homestead will come into view on your left side. It is easier to break away from the power line trail and avoid deep trenches by straying left as you cross the large meadow heading toward the home stead. If exiting to bear mtn trailhead you can stay on the jeep road or continue following the powerlines to FR152E.
Coordinates:
Parking: 34.8990, -111.8791
4th Class Gully: 34.9001, -111.8788
Exit Turn off/ Jeep Road- 34.902316, -111.886946
Video Courtesy Of: Nick Clegg