Boynton Island East
Rappel Sequence: 100/100/70/55/30/25
Region: Boynton Canyon
Distance: 4.5 miles + 1,200’
Difficulty: Hard
ACA: 3Alll
Duration: 4-6 Hours
Rope: 1 x 100’ + 1 x 100’ Pull Cord
Anchor Materials: 60’ webbing + 6 rapides
Longest Rappel: 100’
Parking: Boynton Canyon TH
Overview: Boynton Island East is a personal favorite, and one of the best routes in the region. An engaging approach with well preserved ruins along the way, will take you to the epic summit of Boynton Island. If you came to the red rock region looking for slots, this is the closest you’ll get. Recommended for intermediate level canyoneers. Please remember to respect all sites and artifacts along the way.
Short but demanding approach
Luxurious alcoves and unique Slot
Archaeological Sites
Moderate to advanced down climbs
Approach (2 hours+): The approach starts at Boynton Canyon TH. Beginning on Boynton Canyon trail passing the famous vortex and Kachina Woman Spire on your right and a private resort on your left. As you near the end of the resort and pass Kings cave keep your eyes peeled for a social trail on the left. The social trail cuts between the large bulbous sandstone feature named “The basketball dome” by the local climbing community and Boynton Island. Boynton Island is the first light colored Coconino summit on your left. If you approach a large old tree trunk (Old Stumpy) on the left side of the trail, you just missed your turnoff. The faint social trail moves quickly up to a cliff band with an easier trail to follow. Follow the cliff band to and bushy gully that grants you access to the adjacent ledge system. Follow this ledge past a small set of crumbled ruins, passing a more pristine ruin just around the corner. Shortly after the well preserved ruin you will encounter the first of 4 obstacles:
(1)Short climb- 34.92421, -111.86185 scramble up a steep 15 foot break with one bolt located at the top on the right. This bolt can be used to place a temporary hand line for those who may need it. Continue up a steep slab toward the brushy gully. Navigate through the gully and to the next obstacle.
(2)Boulder- Obstacle two is a large chockstone that must be surmounted, removing and handing off the packs may be useful here. Follow the shelf around and up slabby sandstone to the main ridge.
(3) Exposed ridge- Navigate the ridge towards the main summit, route-finding and exposed downclimbs will come into play.
(4) Airy step- To cross the ridge just after the exposed downclimb there are two options, either an airy step across on the right, or an alternative short scramble up the center and over loose/bushy terrain. Pick your poison!
After the airy step the remainder of the approach is easy hiking to the summit. Eat a snack, log the register, and gear up before heading to R1.
Descent (2+ hours): Up to 7 to rappels under 150’. From the summit down climb down and left on the coconino to R1 on a small pine.
R1: 100’ off tree. This is an access rappel that gets you down the Coconino and onto the red rock slab below.
R2: 100’ into large obvious alcove RDC off the UFO boulder.
R3: 70’ into alcove from small tree LDC to first ledge.
Continue out of the drainage and around a corner approximately 300’ to a large slot system. The ledge looks thin as it contours around, but it goes!
R4: 55’ off tree, the first 20’ can be downclimbed.
R5: 30’ off root RDC.
R6: 25’ from a tree. Use extra caution to avoid maiden hair (vegetation) on the wall.
Exit: After the last rappel you can gear down then exit the route on the left side traversing above the dense drainage below. Enter the drainage at the path of least resistance which will soon connect with Boynton canyon trail.
Coordinates:
Approach Turn off: 34.9225, -111.8565
Link Up’s: If linking up BIE and another route close by you will want to start with the island. Recommended link ups are Slingshot and Ponderosa which as far as difficulty will pale in comparison to what you just did. For those real go-getters Mushroom Drops and Chopper Drop would be worthwhile link ups for a full value day.
Weather: During wet or icy conditions, the approach for Boynton Island should be avoided and the Link up options above would be better choices.
Preservation: Please respect the sensitive terrain and archaeological sites along your journey!
Route Established By: Lars Romig, Laura Stewart, & Jordan Reece
Video Courtesy Of: Nick Clegg