Low Impact Practices
Low impact practices are vital for the preservation of our canyons. Sedona is becoming and rapidly growing adventure destination because it is awesome and offers a variety of outdoor adventures. With a rise in the sport of canyoneering in the Sedona front and backcountry, I feel it is imperative to provide a resource for those new to the area to increase awareness of Sedona specific practices and environmental concerns.
Situational Awareness is likely the key to increasing safety and reducing the impact of our travels on the environment. Seasoned adventurers such as experienced climbers and canyoneers come to depend on it. Communicating awareness of terrain such as cryptobiotic crust, lichen, and sensitive vegetation will help to preserve this landscape and the integrity of the sport. Remember to move through the watercourse when possible avoiding sensitive soils.
Moving Trough The Canyon
The Approach & Exit- On the hike to or from the route, staying on trail is an obvious way to reduce our impact as well as:
Avoiding sensitive terrain such as crypto crust, lichen, and moss.
Back tracking or returning the way you came when you feel you may be off track.
Keeping noise levels low helping to preserve the peace and solitude.
Traveling on durable surfaces.
Keeping your group on the same path.
Avoiding the use of micro-spikes or trekking poles with metal tips on rock.
Do not leave fixed handlines, cairns, ribbons, or alter the terrain.
Respecting other outdoorsman and recreationalists.
Respect archaeological sites and artifacts along your journey.
Traveling in small groups.
Leave the drone at home.
In the Canyon or On Route- The way we move through a canyon or route can have a long lasting effect on the environment and the sport.
“Go With The Flow”
Staying in the watercourse
Watercourses get flushed out seasonally and tend to be the best quality of rock for navigation. Just outside of the watercourses exist large collections of sensitive soils and terrain that are very fragile and important in preventing erosion. Staying within the watercourse and avoiding sensitive terrain is recommended for safety and preservation.
Anchors
Webbing- Tubular one inch climbing grade webbing of neutral color is the Sedona standard.
** Rust, Tan, and Black examples of neutral colors
Webbing should be used sparingly and efficiently, often times webbing is overused and of vibrant color or poor quality. Not only does this leave more of an impact on the environment, but it can also make inspecting anchors more difficult.
All old webbing and anchor materials should be packed out of the canyon or route.
Anchor Management includes locating, inspecting, and modifying (if needed) an anchor. Anchors should always be inspected for safety.
Locate
Locating existing anchors is usually simple and straightforward as they are required in order to progress past an obstacle. It is important to locate the original anchor to avoid placing multiple anchors in one location. Sometimes routes are cleaned of bad webbing and then “ghosted” or rappelled without leaving an anchor behind. Stripping mandatory anchors and not replacing them is an unsafe practice that should be avoided. To easily locate the anchor it is recommended to evaluate the most reliable anchor sources such as large trees or boulders near the edge. The rappel line should avoid sensitive terrain such as sensitive soils and lichen.
Inspect
Inspecting the anchor is done by evaluating the 3 parts of the anchor: Anchor Source, Webbing, & Rapide
The Source- Natural anchors are common in Sedona and tend to range from small shrubs to large trees or boulder piles. Inspect the source to make sure it’s reliable, checking for damage to the source or surrounding terrain. Move hazardous debris to the side (not down canyon). Preferred anchor sources are high and close to the edge to reduce or prevent any contact with the sandstone. Large trees and boulders near the edge tend to be the best source. Sourcing materials for deadman and cairn anchors should be avoided, especially in areas with archaeological sites nearby.
Webbing- Webbing should be inspected at every anchor for damage and replaced if necessary. Bright colored webbing should be avoided as it takes away from the natural beauty of the canyon. Neutral colors such as black, tan, rust, and green are recommended. The webbing coloration and texture quality should be evaluated. Sun-bleached or crispy webbing should be removed and replaced. Webbing can attract rodents and should be evaluated for, cuts, tears, or chewing related damage. Webbing comes in different forms but as a Sedona Standard: neutral colored climbing grade 1 inch tubular or flat webbing should be used. Lastly, anchors should be unobtrusive and easy to inspect. An anchor with an abundance of webbing should be cleaned or replaced with a simple and less obtrusive anchor. Excess webbing should be packed out of the route and disposed of properly.
Rapide- The rapide is also referred to as a rappel ring or quick-link. The rapide should be inspected to make sure the gate is closed and that it’s of appropriate size. Using a rapid that is too small can result in issues with retrieval or a stuck rope. A rapide that is too large can allow room for a carabiner or knot block to slip through.
Modify
It is important to become familiar with anchor building techniques and knots in order to safely inspect and modify an anchor. Safety and environmental impacts are the most important things to consider when building or modifying anchors. The main reason to modify and anchor is for safety. If something about an anchor doesn’t seem safe, then adjustments or modifications may be necessary. Old worn anchors should be replaced if conditions are questionable. Adjusting the height or length of an anchor could make all the difference when it comes to tricky starts and rope retrieval.
Obtrusive anchors with an abundance of webbing should be modified to make them easier to inspect and minimize impact. Anchors should be modified to reduce their impact on the surrounding terrain if possible.
Extended Anchors- Extending an anchor is often done to reduce contact with the rock and make rope retrieval easier. Over extended anchors can be an eye sore, while anchors set farther back can result in damage to the terrain or your gear. Retrievable anchors can be an excellent remedy to this dilemma but require more training and experience. Modifying extended anchors is a low impact practice that can improve the quality of the route and your experience.
Redundancy- Anchor redundancy is achieved when two anchor sources are used to share or split the load on an anchor. An example of this would be when a sling around one tree, and a sling around the base of a bush are equalized and joined at the master point. Backing up a sound and strong anchor with a marginal anchor can may increase you’re feeling of safety, but is a poor practice.
Two things NOT to do when making an anchor redundant:
Backing up an anchor off the same source. Adding a loop of webbing to a tree or primary source and leaving the existing webbing only creates more clutter and encourages poor canyon etiquette. Multiple strands from one source can be difficult to inspect. Webbing of questionable quality should be removed and replaced.
Backing up a Bomber anchor with a Marginal anchor. If an anchor source is bomber, then leave it alone. Existing anchors in good shape are often your best bet for a smooth rappel and easy retrieval. Backing up a bomber anchor on a marginal anchor could compromise the anchors’ integrity and encourage unsafe habits for those who come after you.
Anchor Quality Descriptions
Marginal Anchor- A marginal anchor is one that is questionable as far as its strength and ability to support a significant load. Examples of marginal anchors are weak or brittle vegetation such as a manzanita, small trees or saplings, and boulders or rock features.
Bomber Anchor- A bomber or bomb-proof anchor is one that will undoubtedly support the load under normal and unforeseen circumstances. Examples of bombproof anchors are Large trees, Redundant knot chocks, big boulders, and bolts.
Using the most bomber anchor source closest to the edge is often the safest and most straightforward choice. Grouping together marginal anchors is a dangerous practice and should be avoided.
Tech Tips
Rope Deployment-
Deploying the rope should be done logically and not emotionally. I cannot begin to count the number of times I’ve seen rope bags tossed blindly out of fear or excitement. When deploying the rope or the pull cord it is recommended to attach the rope bag to your harness and “Trail” or take the rope with you. Blindly throwing the rope can result in all types of negative outcomes from hiker related injuries, damage to archaeological sites, and rappelling or retrieval related incidents. Trailing the rope to the edge until you can see a clear drop zone below is a safe low impact practice .
Edge Protection- Placing edge protection between the rock and the rope will prevent contact between the two, eliminating chance of rope or rock damage. This practice is particularly helpful with large groups and big or aggressively over hung rappels.
Setting Rope Length- Seldom mentioned in beginner courses setting rope length is an easy practice that will avoid coils in the rope and pulling excess rope through upon retrieval. If I am using a block and rappeling off one strand of rope I will often set the rope length for efficiency, to reduce impact on the environment.
Rope Retrieval- How we get the rope back can potentially result in rope grooves or scarification of the rock. When it comes to getting the rope back there are ways to do so that will cause little to no harm. Facilitating and promoting mindful rope retrieval practices is the best way to minimize our impact.
Pull Angle- Before pulling the rope locating a clear spot out and back from the edge will make the pull angle larger and reduce the friction/contact between the rope and the rock. Finding a good pull angle will make the pull easier, reduce rope groove potential, and protect your gear.
Contingency Anchors- A figure 8 is often used in order to rig to lower and set rope length. Removing the figure 8 block before retrieving the rope will make ease the process and prevent scarification of the rock and sensitive terrain.
Biner-Blocks- Carabiners can drag across the sandstone upon retrieval damaging the rock, rope, and carabiner. Switching to a double rope rappel or retrievable anchor for the last person down could reduce or eliminate this problem.
Retrievable Anchors- Retrievable anchors come in different forms but I have found a toggle or fiddle stick to be the most efficient. Retrievable anchors could involve more risks if used incorrectly and for this reason are rarely used. As canyoneering and LNT evolve, the use of retrievable anchors to minimize impact has increased over the years.
Clearing your device- Perhaps one of the best ways to protect the rock is to clear your descending device over aggressive edges or overhangs. Keeping your device close to your harness and not extended out will help prevent contact with the rock. The edge can also be protected with edge protection, reducing or preventing contact with metal against the sandstone is very vital to the preservation of the environment and the sport.
Rope Bags- Using a rope bag to manage your rope will not only increase your efficiency but will also eliminate unnecessary contact with the surrounding environment. Ropes can get stuck in trees and dislodge rocks much more easily if not contained and managed properly.